Santo Antônio – an insider's love letter
But first, a quick introduction
What are this neighbourhood and this guidebook all about?
This is where you're staying — in my humble opinion the most charming neighbourhood in town, even though gentrification (a process of which I'm partly guilty) is definitely taking its toll. So enjoy Santo Antônio's last moments of authenticity before the yuppies are done moving in!
My goal with this guidebook is to convey the diversity of the neighbourhood without making it feel bloated and disorienting. Here you'll find all my favourite things to do and see in Santo Antônio. Some categories are subdivided into My Picks (if you're staying for just a few days) and Continued (if you have more time to explore the neighbourhood). Check back as I update regularly!
That's it! I hope you find this guidebook as useful as it is fun for me to make it.
Um abraço and happy exploring,
~Pedro
99 recommandé par les habitants
Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
This is where you're staying — in my humble opinion the most charming neighbourhood in town, even though gentrification (a process of which I'm partly guilty) is definitely taking its toll. So enjoy Santo Antônio's last moments of authenticity before the yuppies are done moving in!
My goal with this guidebook is to convey the diversity of the neighbourhood without making it feel bloated and disorienting. Here you'll find all my favourite things to do and see in Santo Antônio. Some categories are subdivided into My Picks (if you're staying for just a few days) and Continued (if you have more time to explore the neighbourhood). Check back as I update regularly!
That's it! I hope you find this guidebook as useful as it is fun for me to make it.
Um abraço and happy exploring,
~Pedro
Essentials
The very basic, all conveniently located within walking distance.
The local grocer. Brothers Jaime and Tony have the basics covered and it's steps away from you.
Disk Feira - Casa do Sertão
03 R. dos MarchantesThe local grocer. Brothers Jaime and Tony have the basics covered and it's steps away from you.
A slightly larger grocery store and bakery with delicious fresh bread. Decent cheap burgers and açaí can be made on the spot.
7 recommandé par les habitants
Nutrilar
36 R. Siqueira CamposA slightly larger grocery store and bakery with delicious fresh bread. Decent cheap burgers and açaí can be made on the spot.
The neighbourhood bakery. Get there early morning for your fresh batch of cacetinho (French loafs). You can also get your greasy breakfast on the spot any time of day. Their fruit mix juice is unbeatable!
Panificadora Santo Antônio
The neighbourhood bakery. Get there early morning for your fresh batch of cacetinho (French loafs). You can also get your greasy breakfast on the spot any time of day. Their fruit mix juice is unbeatable!
If you need minor medical treatment beyond our first aid kit, you can see a doctor at the community's Health Centre, free of charge. If you don't speak Portuguese, G****e Translate is your best friend.
UBS Santo Antonio
238 Praça dos Quinze MistériosIf you need minor medical treatment beyond our first aid kit, you can see a doctor at the community's Health Centre, free of charge. If you don't speak Portuguese, G****e Translate is your best friend.
Call Nilson in advance to make sure he'll be there when you drop your clothes. Unfortunately I can't paste phone numbers, but you can easily find it on Maps.
Lavanderia
Call Nilson in advance to make sure he'll be there when you drop your clothes. Unfortunately I can't paste phone numbers, but you can easily find it on Maps.
Wellness
Gabriel is a masterful massage therapist and his studio is a calm, relaxing space for when you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.
Afeto Nagô Massoterapia
Gabriel is a masterful massage therapist and his studio is a calm, relaxing space for when you want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.
Luciana is a seasoned yoga teacher and massage therapist. She can see you either at your place or at her studio.
Holistikamente.om
Luciana is a seasoned yoga teacher and massage therapist. She can see you either at your place or at her studio.
This quirky little shop has all sorts of products to cozy up your home like scented candles, incenses, teas, jams, little art pieces as well as clothing accessories.
AlmaZen Store - Artes, Presentes e Tabacaria
This quirky little shop has all sorts of products to cozy up your home like scented candles, incenses, teas, jams, little art pieces as well as clothing accessories.
Food Scene - My Picks
Everything from fancy reservation-only bistros to artery-clogging, heart attack-inducing street food.
A bit tricky to find as there's no signage and it looks like any other historic house from the outside. Once you find your way in it'll be worth it. The back garden is a highlight. Check for their amazing live music schedule.
Espaço D'venetta
A bit tricky to find as there's no signage and it looks like any other historic house from the outside. Once you find your way in it'll be worth it. The back garden is a highlight. Check for their amazing live music schedule.
The best of PanAfrican cuisine in one same spot. Go all the way back then downstairs and you'll be treated to a gorgeous varanda.
7 recommandé par les habitants
Zanzibar
60-B R. Direita de Santo AntônioThe best of PanAfrican cuisine in one same spot. Go all the way back then downstairs and you'll be treated to a gorgeous varanda.
Delicious vegan restaurant. Just go in, order whatever their prato do dia is and let them wow you.
12 recommandé par les habitants
Rango Vegan
466 R. do PassoDelicious vegan restaurant. Just go in, order whatever their prato do dia is and let them wow you.
Food Scene - Continued
Italian-born chef Alessandro Narduzzi runs a tight ship with this most excellent Mediterranean cuisine restaurant.
Restaurante La Lupa
Italian-born chef Alessandro Narduzzi runs a tight ship with this most excellent Mediterranean cuisine restaurant.
Fine dining Bahiano style with an exquisite vista. A bit tacky if you ask me, but what do I know!
37 recommandé par les habitants
Restaurante Poró
445 R. Direita de Santo AntônioFine dining Bahiano style with an exquisite vista. A bit tacky if you ask me, but what do I know!
Chef Jota is a master of his craft. And if you're a wine enthusiast (but not necessarily a connoisseur), this beautifully restored casarão colonial has a wide enough selection to quench your thirsty taste buds.
JDM Casa de Farinha
97 Rua Direita de Santo AntônioChef Jota is a master of his craft. And if you're a wine enthusiast (but not necessarily a connoisseur), this beautifully restored casarão colonial has a wide enough selection to quench your thirsty taste buds.
Simple little restaurant serving delicious local food. Their bolinho de bacalhau is insanely good!
Fera Petiscaria & Bar
Simple little restaurant serving delicious local food. Their bolinho de bacalhau is insanely good!
Ânima Cozinha Afetiva
While ambience may leave something to be desired, their not-dogs are a must.
Everything here is homemade/homegrown, and everything here is heavenly. Chef Juliano also makes delicious jams and pickles that you can bring home.
La Tasca Atelier Gastronômico
379 R. dos MarchantesEverything here is homemade/homegrown, and everything here is heavenly. Chef Juliano also makes delicious jams and pickles that you can bring home.
Pizzaiolo Gustavo gives timeless classics a modern twist in this pizza joint that definitely deserves all the hype it gets.
Ziggy Pizza Pub
Pizzaiolo Gustavo gives timeless classics a modern twist in this pizza joint that definitely deserves all the hype it gets.
Ulisses makes some straightforward acarajé — traditional street food that's basically a crispy deep-fried ball of beans. Ask for an "acarajé completo" only if you're really, really, REALLY into hot food. Otherwise, "completo mas sem pimenta" will do the trick.
Abará da Vovó
18 R. Direita de Santo AntônioUlisses makes some straightforward acarajé — traditional street food that's basically a crispy deep-fried ball of beans. Ask for an "acarajé completo" only if you're really, really, REALLY into hot food. Otherwise, "completo mas sem pimenta" will do the trick.
A family-owned little restaurant at a beautiful alleyway that visitors are — perhaps for the better — mostly oblivious to.
Sabor & Arte - Comida Afetiva
A family-owned little restaurant at a beautiful alleyway that visitors are — perhaps for the better — mostly oblivious to.
By dawn this otherwise quiet little plaza is filled with dozens of bar tables and stools. From Thursday through Sunday the place is always packed. Their arrumadinho de carne de sol is a local favourite!
R'Canto do Pascoal
1 Rua Direita de Santo AntônioBy dawn this otherwise quiet little plaza is filled with dozens of bar tables and stools. From Thursday through Sunday the place is always packed. Their arrumadinho de carne de sol is a local favourite!
Excellent comfort food. On Sundays their feijoada (black bean stew with beef and pork and a generous side of rice, farofa, wild cabbage and oranges) is a must. Every weekend they serve breakfast buffet from 7h until 11h.
Cadê Q'Chama?
Excellent comfort food. On Sundays their feijoada (black bean stew with beef and pork and a generous side of rice, farofa, wild cabbage and oranges) is a must. Every weekend they serve breakfast buffet from 7h until 11h.
It may not look like much, but this joint serves up the best hotdogs in town. And super cheap!
Travessa's Lanchonete
65 Tv. dos PerdõesIt may not look like much, but this joint serves up the best hotdogs in town. And super cheap!
This family-owned self-serve restaurant serves fairly-priced, straightforward comida caseira.
Restaurante Tempero do Roque
This family-owned self-serve restaurant serves fairly-priced, straightforward comida caseira.
Ugly self-serve restaurant with ok food. For when you're too lazy to cook and too broke to order delivery.
Bier Bar
60 R. dos AdôbesUgly self-serve restaurant with ok food. For when you're too lazy to cook and too broke to order delivery.
This is the place in the neighbourhood to get moqueca (basically a fish or seafood stew cooked on dendê oil). Head to the back patio for the best view. I'm personally boycotting the place after the owner ran over a street dog and refused to pay the vet bill.
19 recommandé par les habitants
Bar Ulisses
541 R. Direita de Santo AntônioThis is the place in the neighbourhood to get moqueca (basically a fish or seafood stew cooked on dendê oil). Head to the back patio for the best view. I'm personally boycotting the place after the owner ran over a street dog and refused to pay the vet bill.
Breakfast, Brunch & Cafés
Fancy-pants bistros? Check. No-nonsense breakfast joints? You got it.
Hands down my favourite café. Crowd doesn't help, though — mostly rich yuppies, even though the place isn't at all pricey. Once you walk past the narrow hallway you are greeted by this varanda with a generous view to All Saints' Bay. Ideal for catching the sunset in good company.
74 recommandé par les habitants
Cafélier
50 R. do CarmoHands down my favourite café. Crowd doesn't help, though — mostly rich yuppies, even though the place isn't at all pricey. Once you walk past the narrow hallway you are greeted by this varanda with a generous view to All Saints' Bay. Ideal for catching the sunset in good company.
This place is equal parts art gallery and coffeeshop, and it's hard to say which I like better. Adriano has an eye for beauty like few do. What a joy it is to come here and just chill like you have no bills to pay!
Café & Câmera
This place is equal parts art gallery and coffeeshop, and it's hard to say which I like better. Adriano has an eye for beauty like few do. What a joy it is to come here and just chill like you have no bills to pay!
This breakfast / brunch spot hides a lush garden and a little koi pond in the back. The goat cheese tostadas are a must!
Padoca do Carmo
13 Rua do CarmoThis breakfast / brunch spot hides a lush garden and a little koi pond in the back. The goat cheese tostadas are a must!
If you are a coffee aficionado (I would never call you a snob 👀) then this coffeeshop is perfect for you! They bring select coffee beans and blends from around the country and turn the whole thing into a tasting and learning experience for everyone.
Cafeteria Nossa Senhora do Bom Café
If you are a coffee aficionado (I would never call you a snob 👀) then this coffeeshop is perfect for you! They bring select coffee beans and blends from around the country and turn the whole thing into a tasting and learning experience for everyone.
beautiful XIX century colonial house with a simple breakfast served everyday from 7h30 till 10h. no reservation necessary.
Pousada Villa Carmo
58 Rua do Carmobeautiful XIX century colonial house with a simple breakfast served everyday from 7h30 till 10h. no reservation necessary.
Every Sunday this stunning colonial guesthouse opens for non-guests to try their delicious breakfast. Reservations necessary.
Pousada do Boqueirao
48 R. Direita de Santo AntônioEvery Sunday this stunning colonial guesthouse opens for non-guests to try their delicious breakfast. Reservations necessary.
Nevermind the dumb name – the partners assured me they had no idea it meant what it means when they opened in late 2021. They offer a large variety of beans from the Chapada Diamantina region.
Yolo Coffee Bar
3 Largo de Santo Antônio Além do CarmoNevermind the dumb name – the partners assured me they had no idea it meant what it means when they opened in late 2021. They offer a large variety of beans from the Chapada Diamantina region.
Museums & Historical Sights
Museums, art galleries and historical sights you shouldn't miss in Santo Antônio Além do Carmo.
The Museu do Mar tells the story of Ukrainian-born sailor and engineer Alexey Belov. One of his magnificent sailboats is on display inside.
Museu do Mar - Aleixo Belov
The Museu do Mar tells the story of Ukrainian-born sailor and engineer Alexey Belov. One of his magnificent sailboats is on display inside.
Not quite a house, not quite a museum, this absurdly beautiful manor is the hidden living quarters of Moroccan / French / Brazilian art dealer Dimitri Ganzelevitch. The massive colonial townhouse is almost fully occupied by the beautiful oddities Dimitri has collected over the last half century. R$10 admittance, book in advance.
Casa Solar Santo Antonio Museum
177 R. Direita de Santo AntônioNot quite a house, not quite a museum, this absurdly beautiful manor is the hidden living quarters of Moroccan / French / Brazilian art dealer Dimitri Ganzelevitch. The massive colonial townhouse is almost fully occupied by the beautiful oddities Dimitri has collected over the last half century. R$10 admittance, book in advance.
Home of the great abolitionist poet Castro Alves, this historical sobrado now houses a museum dedicated to his legacy of activism through verse.
Casa de Castro Alves
52 R. do PassoHome of the great abolitionist poet Castro Alves, this historical sobrado now houses a museum dedicated to his legacy of activism through verse.
One of the oldest buildings still standing in Brazil, this little-known, supposedly haunted colonial house has a grim history. Here a catholic priest and his servants were stabbed to death all the way back in 1755. It now houses music, singing and painting classes — but only until 17h because heck, you never know!
Casa das Sete Mortes
24 R. do PassoOne of the oldest buildings still standing in Brazil, this little-known, supposedly haunted colonial house has a grim history. Here a catholic priest and his servants were stabbed to death all the way back in 1755. It now houses music, singing and painting classes — but only until 17h because heck, you never know!
Named after the great South African anti-apartheid activist, this cultural centre strives to empower the local youth through education, arts and politics. Worth visiting and contributing!
Instituto Cultural Beneficente Steve Biko
nº4 R. do PassoNamed after the great South African anti-apartheid activist, this cultural centre strives to empower the local youth through education, arts and politics. Worth visiting and contributing!