Jock’s guidebook
Local walks
Any guests to the Mews Stables should use William Street as their main walking route into the Old and New Towns, to enjoy the quirky independent shops and avoid the traffic.
From the end of the mews lane cross the street diagonally to the left then turn into the cathedral grounds (more info. on this under sightseeing) and use the footpath to the next street, Manor Place. Cross this diagonally to the right and you are at the start of William Street. After the second block this changes name to become Alva Street.
Once you get your bearings, an alternative route is to walk down the other side of the cathedral to see Easter Coates House, dated 1615, the house on whose land the West End was built.
If ever you are lost in town the distinctive three spires of Saint Mary's Cathedral indicate the way home.
William Street
William StreetAny guests to the Mews Stables should use William Street as their main walking route into the Old and New Towns, to enjoy the quirky independent shops and avoid the traffic.
From the end of the mews lane cross the street diagonally to the left then turn into the cathedral grounds (more info. on this under sightseeing) and use the footpath to the next street, Manor Place. Cross this diagonally to the right and you are at the start of William Street. After the second block this changes name to become Alva Street.
Once you get your bearings, an alternative route is to walk down the other side of the cathedral to see Easter Coates House, dated 1615, the house on whose land the West End was built.
If ever you are lost in town the distinctive three spires of Saint Mary's Cathedral indicate the way home.
The picturesque Dean Village is very close to the Mews Stables but easily overlooked; it is better known to locals than visitors. Although there aren't any actual museums, cafes or destinations in the village it is easily combined with a nice walk to other places of interest, which I will describe:-
1. Very quick Dean Village "taster" detour, going towards the New Town (adds about 20 minutes).
Turn left at the end of the mews lane and head north along Palmerston Place, which becomes Douglas Gardens as it goes down the hill. At the red sandstone church, now a hostel on the corner, turn right into Belford Road. After 200m take the left fork at a cafe called Braw, down the steep bank into a new white-rendered housing scheme with wooden balconies. Go under the "arch" and turn left towards the river. The footbridge ahead is now dangerous and closed - turn right along the river and follow the cobbled path. Opposite is Well Court, a much-photographed workers' housing scheme built by the owner of the Scotsman Newspaper as a morally good deed and to give himself something pretty to look at from his apartments above, where he entertained important politicians of the day. At Bells Brae have a wander left onto the bridge for photos but proceed right, past the orange-rendered 17th century mill up Bell's Brae to Queensferry Street, passing the old toll house at the top. From here go straight ahead to Princes Street or left up Randolph Place to Charlotte Square. There are lots of coffee shops around here if you need a drink already.
2. Longer detour via Stockbridge to the New Town (adds about 45 minutes).
As tour 1., but at Bells Brae continue straight ahead, neither crossing the bridge nor going uphill. The path continues for about 1.5km (1 mile +) passing under the Dean Bridge and beside St Bernards Well to Kerr Street; numerous coffee opportunities here - if it is sunny Pizza Express across the bridge has an outside terrace down by the water. From here turn right and wander up the hill through North West Circus Place to Howe Street passing through Queen Street Gardens to Frederick Street in the New Town and ultimately Princes Street, with some interesting shops along the way.
3. Longer walk via Water of Leith and Stockbridge to the Royal Botanic Gardens (about 1 hour or more if you daudle but you need a half day for the Botanics).
As tours 1 and 2 to Stockbridge but at Kerr Street cross the bridge to the left and go along Raeburn Place to St Bernards Row, (2nd opening) turning right at Hectors pub. Take the fork left onto Arboretum Avenue then at the end of that go straight ahead on Arboretum Place until you come to the west entrance gate on your right. The John Hope Gateway building has a restaurant and outdoor seating area or there is a cafe in the centre of the parkland, another 200m walk, with fine views of the city skyline. Within the gardens are many walks and attractions including the palm houses, the Queen Mother's Garden, the rockery and so on. I would recommend walking through the gardens and exiting by the east gate to catch a taxi or bus from Inverleith Row if you are too tired to walk back.
268 recommandé par les habitants
Dean Village
Dean PathThe picturesque Dean Village is very close to the Mews Stables but easily overlooked; it is better known to locals than visitors. Although there aren't any actual museums, cafes or destinations in the village it is easily combined with a nice walk to other places of interest, which I will describe:-
1. Very quick Dean Village "taster" detour, going towards the New Town (adds about 20 minutes).
Turn left at the end of the mews lane and head north along Palmerston Place, which becomes Douglas Gardens as it goes down the hill. At the red sandstone church, now a hostel on the corner, turn right into Belford Road. After 200m take the left fork at a cafe called Braw, down the steep bank into a new white-rendered housing scheme with wooden balconies. Go under the "arch" and turn left towards the river. The footbridge ahead is now dangerous and closed - turn right along the river and follow the cobbled path. Opposite is Well Court, a much-photographed workers' housing scheme built by the owner of the Scotsman Newspaper as a morally good deed and to give himself something pretty to look at from his apartments above, where he entertained important politicians of the day. At Bells Brae have a wander left onto the bridge for photos but proceed right, past the orange-rendered 17th century mill up Bell's Brae to Queensferry Street, passing the old toll house at the top. From here go straight ahead to Princes Street or left up Randolph Place to Charlotte Square. There are lots of coffee shops around here if you need a drink already.
2. Longer detour via Stockbridge to the New Town (adds about 45 minutes).
As tour 1., but at Bells Brae continue straight ahead, neither crossing the bridge nor going uphill. The path continues for about 1.5km (1 mile +) passing under the Dean Bridge and beside St Bernards Well to Kerr Street; numerous coffee opportunities here - if it is sunny Pizza Express across the bridge has an outside terrace down by the water. From here turn right and wander up the hill through North West Circus Place to Howe Street passing through Queen Street Gardens to Frederick Street in the New Town and ultimately Princes Street, with some interesting shops along the way.
3. Longer walk via Water of Leith and Stockbridge to the Royal Botanic Gardens (about 1 hour or more if you daudle but you need a half day for the Botanics).
As tours 1 and 2 to Stockbridge but at Kerr Street cross the bridge to the left and go along Raeburn Place to St Bernards Row, (2nd opening) turning right at Hectors pub. Take the fork left onto Arboretum Avenue then at the end of that go straight ahead on Arboretum Place until you come to the west entrance gate on your right. The John Hope Gateway building has a restaurant and outdoor seating area or there is a cafe in the centre of the parkland, another 200m walk, with fine views of the city skyline. Within the gardens are many walks and attractions including the palm houses, the Queen Mother's Garden, the rockery and so on. I would recommend walking through the gardens and exiting by the east gate to catch a taxi or bus from Inverleith Row if you are too tired to walk back.
This is another quick "taster" of the Water of Leith walkway using the linked parkland of the galleries. It makes a great little excursion in itself taking about 45 minutes altogether from the Mews Stables and there is an excellent cafe in the garden behind the G.O.M.A. with the best cakes* and salads in Edinburgh (*since Covid the choice seems more limited) if you want to take longer. You could even look at the paintings I guess - it's a tiny gallery with a bit of everything, perfect for people like me who get gallery fatigue after 10 minutes. NB the route involves a lot of steps and relies on the gallery grounds being open, from 10-5 weekdays and 2-5 on Sundays.
From the end of the mews lane turn left into Palmerston Place and continue down Douglas Gardens, turning left with the traffic at the bottom of the hill. Once you have crossed the road bridge there is a pedestrian entrance gate in the stone wall next to a lodge cottage (see picture) on the right. Go through this gate into the Dean Gallery grounds, which contain various modernist sculptures. The path snakes past the entrance to this gallery, which is used for visiting exhibitions and contains a re-creation of Paolozzi's studio, and continues to the entrance to the G.O.M.A. across the road, which houses the permanent collection.
The G.O.M.A. grounds contain more sculptures and installations, of which the largest, Charles Jencks' landform is invariably fenced off to preserve the turf. Around the back of the building is the cafe, which since Covid must be approached through the garden instead of from the main building.
After refreshments, or not, continue through a hole in the garden wall behind the cafe on a path which is much wilder and quickly descends down about 80 steps to a footbridge over the Water of Leith. After crossing this turn left to head home (the route to the right is to Roseburn, a longer walk home). Look out for the heron around here; there is usually one fishing near one of the weirs. Walking along the river after about 400m there is a steep flight of wooden stairs (again about 80); go up these to Douglas Crescent, turn right to go up Magdala Crecent and then first left through Eglinton Crescent to get back to Palmerston Place.
67 recommandé par les habitants
Gallery of Modern Art station
This is another quick "taster" of the Water of Leith walkway using the linked parkland of the galleries. It makes a great little excursion in itself taking about 45 minutes altogether from the Mews Stables and there is an excellent cafe in the garden behind the G.O.M.A. with the best cakes* and salads in Edinburgh (*since Covid the choice seems more limited) if you want to take longer. You could even look at the paintings I guess - it's a tiny gallery with a bit of everything, perfect for people like me who get gallery fatigue after 10 minutes. NB the route involves a lot of steps and relies on the gallery grounds being open, from 10-5 weekdays and 2-5 on Sundays.
From the end of the mews lane turn left into Palmerston Place and continue down Douglas Gardens, turning left with the traffic at the bottom of the hill. Once you have crossed the road bridge there is a pedestrian entrance gate in the stone wall next to a lodge cottage (see picture) on the right. Go through this gate into the Dean Gallery grounds, which contain various modernist sculptures. The path snakes past the entrance to this gallery, which is used for visiting exhibitions and contains a re-creation of Paolozzi's studio, and continues to the entrance to the G.O.M.A. across the road, which houses the permanent collection.
The G.O.M.A. grounds contain more sculptures and installations, of which the largest, Charles Jencks' landform is invariably fenced off to preserve the turf. Around the back of the building is the cafe, which since Covid must be approached through the garden instead of from the main building.
After refreshments, or not, continue through a hole in the garden wall behind the cafe on a path which is much wilder and quickly descends down about 80 steps to a footbridge over the Water of Leith. After crossing this turn left to head home (the route to the right is to Roseburn, a longer walk home). Look out for the heron around here; there is usually one fishing near one of the weirs. Walking along the river after about 400m there is a steep flight of wooden stairs (again about 80); go up these to Douglas Crescent, turn right to go up Magdala Crecent and then first left through Eglinton Crescent to get back to Palmerston Place.
This fairly short walk (about 1 hour) is again a "taster" of the Old Town and I would recommend it if you have just arrived and want to step out and get your bearings, even at night.
The classic Old Town experience is to walk the Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood Palace and whilst there is merit in that, in reality only kings and queens experienced it that way. For most of the town's population Old Town life thrived in the closes and lands, the tightly packed alleyways and tenements on each side of the High Street, which this route demonstrates. It is a loop, starting and finishing at the Mews though it could easily be extended to take all day.
From the Mews Stables walk to the west end of Princes Street via William Street and Alva Street to Queensferry Street, turning right to face the Caledonian Hotel. Cross Shandwick Place and walk past the left hand side of the hotel on Lothian Road, adjacent to the gardens. After 150m cross Lothian Road at the lights and walk down Kings Stables Road to the Grassmarket, passing under the Johnstone Terrace bridge/tunnel and below the castle rock. The tiny 'pepperpot'-sized building on the corner of Lothian Road was to guard against grave-robbers for the medical school - look up Deacon Brodie to find out more about this.
The Grassmarket has an interesting history; it was the town's main public space since the 14th Century, used for cattle markets, corn markets and public executions. Walk to the far end and turn left up West Bow, passing some of the oldest houses in the city on the left side. West Bow becomes Victoria Street with an upper level terrace above the shops on the left. About halfway up Victoria Street turn left up a steep staircase between the shops, to Upper Bow which then opens out into Lawnmarket, part of the Royal Mile. This climb gives a sense of the topography of the castle hill. Cross the Lawnmarket and look for Milne's Court opposite, just down from the Ensign Ewart pub. If you would like a drink at this point I would recommend the Jolly Judge pub which is three closes down the Lawnmarket at James Court (look for the sign, the close has three entrances).
Mylne's Court is a typical 17th Century tenement, or land, now used as universtity halls of residence. The close opens out at the top of the Mound with a great panorama north over the New Town below. The Playfair Steps straight ahead are currently closed so walk down the Mound to Princes Street passing the National Gallery and Royal Scottish Academy on the way.
From Princes Street it is a straightforward walk left towards the West End, and in the day time it is possible to walk through the gardens. An alternative route home is to turn right at South Charlotte Street into Charlotte Square, designed by Robert Adam and reputedly one of the finest squares in Europe. Turn left at the square and walk towards the copper-domed West Register House, at the side of which are pedestrian closes leading to Randolph Square and then Melville Street with the cathedral straight ahead.
195 recommandé par les habitants
Edinburgh Old Town
This fairly short walk (about 1 hour) is again a "taster" of the Old Town and I would recommend it if you have just arrived and want to step out and get your bearings, even at night.
The classic Old Town experience is to walk the Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood Palace and whilst there is merit in that, in reality only kings and queens experienced it that way. For most of the town's population Old Town life thrived in the closes and lands, the tightly packed alleyways and tenements on each side of the High Street, which this route demonstrates. It is a loop, starting and finishing at the Mews though it could easily be extended to take all day.
From the Mews Stables walk to the west end of Princes Street via William Street and Alva Street to Queensferry Street, turning right to face the Caledonian Hotel. Cross Shandwick Place and walk past the left hand side of the hotel on Lothian Road, adjacent to the gardens. After 150m cross Lothian Road at the lights and walk down Kings Stables Road to the Grassmarket, passing under the Johnstone Terrace bridge/tunnel and below the castle rock. The tiny 'pepperpot'-sized building on the corner of Lothian Road was to guard against grave-robbers for the medical school - look up Deacon Brodie to find out more about this.
The Grassmarket has an interesting history; it was the town's main public space since the 14th Century, used for cattle markets, corn markets and public executions. Walk to the far end and turn left up West Bow, passing some of the oldest houses in the city on the left side. West Bow becomes Victoria Street with an upper level terrace above the shops on the left. About halfway up Victoria Street turn left up a steep staircase between the shops, to Upper Bow which then opens out into Lawnmarket, part of the Royal Mile. This climb gives a sense of the topography of the castle hill. Cross the Lawnmarket and look for Milne's Court opposite, just down from the Ensign Ewart pub. If you would like a drink at this point I would recommend the Jolly Judge pub which is three closes down the Lawnmarket at James Court (look for the sign, the close has three entrances).
Mylne's Court is a typical 17th Century tenement, or land, now used as universtity halls of residence. The close opens out at the top of the Mound with a great panorama north over the New Town below. The Playfair Steps straight ahead are currently closed so walk down the Mound to Princes Street passing the National Gallery and Royal Scottish Academy on the way.
From Princes Street it is a straightforward walk left towards the West End, and in the day time it is possible to walk through the gardens. An alternative route home is to turn right at South Charlotte Street into Charlotte Square, designed by Robert Adam and reputedly one of the finest squares in Europe. Turn left at the square and walk towards the copper-domed West Register House, at the side of which are pedestrian closes leading to Randolph Square and then Melville Street with the cathedral straight ahead.
Breakfast
My former bank on the corner of Palmerston Place has now reinvented itself as a restaurant/cafe. Importantly it is open all week including weekends for breakfast, but only with coffees and pastries, which are baked on the premises. If you don't want to go far for your first caffeine hit, this is the place; in the rain you could even run here without getting wet.
It has also gathered some very good reviews for evening dining if, for the same reason you want to stay local.
9 recommandé par les habitants
The Palmerston
1 Palmerston PlaceMy former bank on the corner of Palmerston Place has now reinvented itself as a restaurant/cafe. Importantly it is open all week including weekends for breakfast, but only with coffees and pastries, which are baked on the premises. If you don't want to go far for your first caffeine hit, this is the place; in the rain you could even run here without getting wet.
It has also gathered some very good reviews for evening dining if, for the same reason you want to stay local.
Half way along William Street tiny Laura's offers cooked-to-order traditional breakfasts, cakes, pastries and so on. If we have any discount coupons they will be on the mantelpiece in the Mews Stables. Unfortunately, Laura's is not open at weekends.
Lauras Kitchen
33 William StreetHalf way along William Street tiny Laura's offers cooked-to-order traditional breakfasts, cakes, pastries and so on. If we have any discount coupons they will be on the mantelpiece in the Mews Stables. Unfortunately, Laura's is not open at weekends.
Ryan's is a fairly typical Edinburgh pub, however in its favour it does offer cooked breakfasts at the weekend and you can sit in the glass canopy looking at the castle or watching the world go by.
8 recommandé par les habitants
Ryans Bistro
2-4 Hope StRyan's is a fairly typical Edinburgh pub, however in its favour it does offer cooked breakfasts at the weekend and you can sit in the glass canopy looking at the castle or watching the world go by.
It may seem odd adding a department store as a breakfast venue but Harvey Nicks does have one of the best rooftop views in the city, with the added benefit that you can't see the new "golden turd" behind it. Brunch is decent fare and if you walk (about 2 km, 1.5 miles) you'll certainly be hungry when you get there.
If it's summer ask for a table on the balcony.
181 recommandé par les habitants
Harvey Nichols
It may seem odd adding a department store as a breakfast venue but Harvey Nicks does have one of the best rooftop views in the city, with the added benefit that you can't see the new "golden turd" behind it. Brunch is decent fare and if you walk (about 2 km, 1.5 miles) you'll certainly be hungry when you get there.
If it's summer ask for a table on the balcony.
The Lookout is, as it says all about looking out at the most stupendous views in the city, from the classic "shortbread tin" view of Edinburgh Castle, to the Forth estuary and islands to the north and the Pentland Hills inland to the south - if you can ignore the aforementioned golden thing centre stage. At night it is a magical walk up Calton Hill to the observatory grounds when all the tourists have gone, although taxis can also drive up to drop off. Slow summer sunsets are superb or if its raining, you have the view without getting wet, a win:win.
But the place is pricey, I think about £32 for breakfast of self-served meusli and juice or the art-on-a-plate cooked options, so maybe this is only for if you want to propose to a loved one.
I have dined here in the evening and thoroughly enjoyed it but the reviews are mixed so perhaps it is best to stick to the safe breakfast option and go elsewhere in the evening.
31 recommandé par les habitants
The Lookout by Gardener's Cottage
38 Calton HillThe Lookout is, as it says all about looking out at the most stupendous views in the city, from the classic "shortbread tin" view of Edinburgh Castle, to the Forth estuary and islands to the north and the Pentland Hills inland to the south - if you can ignore the aforementioned golden thing centre stage. At night it is a magical walk up Calton Hill to the observatory grounds when all the tourists have gone, although taxis can also drive up to drop off. Slow summer sunsets are superb or if its raining, you have the view without getting wet, a win:win.
But the place is pricey, I think about £32 for breakfast of self-served meusli and juice or the art-on-a-plate cooked options, so maybe this is only for if you want to propose to a loved one.
I have dined here in the evening and thoroughly enjoyed it but the reviews are mixed so perhaps it is best to stick to the safe breakfast option and go elsewhere in the evening.
On a wet day
The National Museum is a place that could engage anyone for a full day, a museum of natural history, design and technology, archaeology, transport, fashion and culture all in one large venue. It's a big airy space, so perfect for forgetting it is wet outside, and it's free!
The Scottish section, in a separate linked building traces Scottish cultural development from iron age times to the 20th Century, with new acquisitions like the Galloway Hoard added this year, or Dolly the sheep, the world's first cloned mammal. Check out the horse-drawn funeral hearse here; our forbears obviously had very different ideas about death compared to us.
The displays start chronologically in the basement and progress up through the floors and the centuries.
There are two good cafes for sustenance during your visit, but I advocate the first floor gallery cafe as the other is near the doors and can be cold and draughty.
In the wet take a taxi, but to walk here follow my Old Town walk but turn up Candlemaker Row (to the right) rather than West Bow at the far end of the Grassmarket.
1378 recommandé par les habitants
National Museum of Scotland
The National Museum is a place that could engage anyone for a full day, a museum of natural history, design and technology, archaeology, transport, fashion and culture all in one large venue. It's a big airy space, so perfect for forgetting it is wet outside, and it's free!
The Scottish section, in a separate linked building traces Scottish cultural development from iron age times to the 20th Century, with new acquisitions like the Galloway Hoard added this year, or Dolly the sheep, the world's first cloned mammal. Check out the horse-drawn funeral hearse here; our forbears obviously had very different ideas about death compared to us.
The displays start chronologically in the basement and progress up through the floors and the centuries.
There are two good cafes for sustenance during your visit, but I advocate the first floor gallery cafe as the other is near the doors and can be cold and draughty.
In the wet take a taxi, but to walk here follow my Old Town walk but turn up Candlemaker Row (to the right) rather than West Bow at the far end of the Grassmarket.
This is a bit of an unexpected attraction in the centre of Edinburgh, next door to Holyrood Palace, but it does connect into Edinburgh's Enlightenment past and the Scottish formulation of tectonic plate theory in the 18th Century (which we are all familiar with - not). Some hi-tech and engaging audio-visual displays take the visitor on a journey through the Earth's creation from the Big Bang to the present day, complete with simulated earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. It doesn't waste an opportunity to tell us what a disaster human beings are as custodians of the planet; the scale of our impacts does make one stop and think.
Of course there is the obligatory cafe with views of the new Parliament building on one side and Salisbury Crags on the other and, if it is fine it is worth taking a wander around the entrance steps with their monoliths of Scottish stone taken from every geologic period.
The planetarium has some thrilling immersive films taking a light-hearted view of the subject - hold onto your seats.
In the wet, again take a taxi but if it is fine a walk down the Royal Mile can be combined with scaling Calton Hill on the way home; look for Jacob's Ladder (stairs) from Calton Road and note that you will need a whole day.
303 recommandé par les habitants
Dynamic Earth
Holyrood RoadThis is a bit of an unexpected attraction in the centre of Edinburgh, next door to Holyrood Palace, but it does connect into Edinburgh's Enlightenment past and the Scottish formulation of tectonic plate theory in the 18th Century (which we are all familiar with - not). Some hi-tech and engaging audio-visual displays take the visitor on a journey through the Earth's creation from the Big Bang to the present day, complete with simulated earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. It doesn't waste an opportunity to tell us what a disaster human beings are as custodians of the planet; the scale of our impacts does make one stop and think.
Of course there is the obligatory cafe with views of the new Parliament building on one side and Salisbury Crags on the other and, if it is fine it is worth taking a wander around the entrance steps with their monoliths of Scottish stone taken from every geologic period.
The planetarium has some thrilling immersive films taking a light-hearted view of the subject - hold onto your seats.
In the wet, again take a taxi but if it is fine a walk down the Royal Mile can be combined with scaling Calton Hill on the way home; look for Jacob's Ladder (stairs) from Calton Road and note that you will need a whole day.
If you think Ma'am's floating mini-palace might be for you, or even if not, it is worth considering that it was voted Scotland's best attraction for twelve years running and was in Tripadvisor's UK top ten for the last five years. A tour takes two to three hours and, combined with getting there and eating out would make at least a half-day excursion.
Until the tram line opens the best way to get there is by No36 bus from Queensferry Street. Walk to the end of Alva Street, a continuation of William Street and the bus stop (Stop QD) is on your right. You want to catch buses on this side of the road, coming from your right and going to your left. The bus journey, although only a few kilometres, takes 40 minutes. Alternatively you could walk it in an hour and fifteen minutes.
It would be a mistake to visit Leith without sampling The Shore, the historic harbour with its numerous eateries. If wet it might be worth catching the 36 bus back four stops. Alternatively it's a twenty minute walk back past the warehouses.
My favourite bar for pub grub here is the tiny The Shore bar, which predates all of the others, but Fishers next door is good for seafood, or for Michelin-starred art-on-a-plate there is either Tom Kitchin's place nearby in a warehouse on Commercial Street or Martin Wishart’s further up The Shore.
630 recommandé par les habitants
Royal Yacht Britannia
Ocean DriveIf you think Ma'am's floating mini-palace might be for you, or even if not, it is worth considering that it was voted Scotland's best attraction for twelve years running and was in Tripadvisor's UK top ten for the last five years. A tour takes two to three hours and, combined with getting there and eating out would make at least a half-day excursion.
Until the tram line opens the best way to get there is by No36 bus from Queensferry Street. Walk to the end of Alva Street, a continuation of William Street and the bus stop (Stop QD) is on your right. You want to catch buses on this side of the road, coming from your right and going to your left. The bus journey, although only a few kilometres, takes 40 minutes. Alternatively you could walk it in an hour and fifteen minutes.
It would be a mistake to visit Leith without sampling The Shore, the historic harbour with its numerous eateries. If wet it might be worth catching the 36 bus back four stops. Alternatively it's a twenty minute walk back past the warehouses.
My favourite bar for pub grub here is the tiny The Shore bar, which predates all of the others, but Fishers next door is good for seafood, or for Michelin-starred art-on-a-plate there is either Tom Kitchin's place nearby in a warehouse on Commercial Street or Martin Wishart’s further up The Shore.
The V&A Dundee makes a great wet day excursion by train from the Mews Stables as Haymarket Station is only 250m away and the V&A is about the same distance from Dundee Station at the other end; it is almost a door to door service. The journey itself is a real treat crossing two great Victorian rail bridges and hugging the Fife coast for much of the way - see Edinburgh from a different perspective, from across the Firth of Forth. Do make sure that an exhibition is on before you go. I have seen one on Ocean Liners, Robots and Night Fever (the development of discotheques as a cultural phenomenon); all were excellent. There is a very nice restaurant upstairs with a cool Scottish-inspired menu and the RRS Discovery of Antarctic exploration fame is next door to make for a full day out.
117 recommandé par les habitants
V&A Dundee
1 Riverside EsplanadeThe V&A Dundee makes a great wet day excursion by train from the Mews Stables as Haymarket Station is only 250m away and the V&A is about the same distance from Dundee Station at the other end; it is almost a door to door service. The journey itself is a real treat crossing two great Victorian rail bridges and hugging the Fife coast for much of the way - see Edinburgh from a different perspective, from across the Firth of Forth. Do make sure that an exhibition is on before you go. I have seen one on Ocean Liners, Robots and Night Fever (the development of discotheques as a cultural phenomenon); all were excellent. There is a very nice restaurant upstairs with a cool Scottish-inspired menu and the RRS Discovery of Antarctic exploration fame is next door to make for a full day out.
The Johnnie Walker Experience is a good option for a rainy day as it is close by and spread over several floors of a former department store, meaning it takes some time to "experience". Non-whisky drinkers will probably enjoy it as an introduction to the tipple, but those who already enjoy a good dram may be underwhelmed.
The first thing to understand is that this is a promotional vehicle for Diageo, the drinks multinational that owns Guinness. They own about a third of the distilleries in Scotland, but not all. Hence, there is no mention of Glenmorangie, the best-selling single malt in Scotland, or Famous Grouse, the best-selling blended whisky here. Don't expect a rounded view.
The second point is that Johnnie Walker is a blended whisky brand, which was developed in the 19th Century to take "Scotch" to new markets in England, the USA and Far-East. It is good as a mixer in cocktails (where you can't really taste the whisky) but I don't think anyone in Scotland would suggest you drink it neat. The many single malts have far more character and quality than any blended whisky, so while the JW Experience may emphasise that Johnnie Walker is the world's most popular "Scotch" that doesn't really count for much; maybe it has the world's best advertising campaign? Don't be fooled into spending more than £20 on any bottle of blended whisky (or more than £50 on any single malt for that matter).
That said, the Experience is a good first introduction to the topic, with the basic story of whisky, its history and production and what makes it unique. The usual dreich-November-morning-in-a-peat-bog aesthetic is ditched in favour of coloured LED lights and shiny surfaces.
There are tours which feature things like how to make a cocktail, food pairings with whisky, how our taste buds work, how to drink whisky and so on, and in the retail area you can design your own unique label to commemorate your visit (genius marketing!).
Note that you currently have to pre-book many of these events and a table at the rooftop restaurant, which once again offers great views of the castle and West End roofscape.
Lastly, don't leave without noticing the best part of the restoration project, Binn's clock on the corner, with it's pipers who come out to a chiming version of "Scotland the Brave" on the quarter hour; now that is how to do kitsch with class!
36 recommandé par les habitants
Johnnie Walker Princes Street
145 Princes StThe Johnnie Walker Experience is a good option for a rainy day as it is close by and spread over several floors of a former department store, meaning it takes some time to "experience". Non-whisky drinkers will probably enjoy it as an introduction to the tipple, but those who already enjoy a good dram may be underwhelmed.
The first thing to understand is that this is a promotional vehicle for Diageo, the drinks multinational that owns Guinness. They own about a third of the distilleries in Scotland, but not all. Hence, there is no mention of Glenmorangie, the best-selling single malt in Scotland, or Famous Grouse, the best-selling blended whisky here. Don't expect a rounded view.
The second point is that Johnnie Walker is a blended whisky brand, which was developed in the 19th Century to take "Scotch" to new markets in England, the USA and Far-East. It is good as a mixer in cocktails (where you can't really taste the whisky) but I don't think anyone in Scotland would suggest you drink it neat. The many single malts have far more character and quality than any blended whisky, so while the JW Experience may emphasise that Johnnie Walker is the world's most popular "Scotch" that doesn't really count for much; maybe it has the world's best advertising campaign? Don't be fooled into spending more than £20 on any bottle of blended whisky (or more than £50 on any single malt for that matter).
That said, the Experience is a good first introduction to the topic, with the basic story of whisky, its history and production and what makes it unique. The usual dreich-November-morning-in-a-peat-bog aesthetic is ditched in favour of coloured LED lights and shiny surfaces.
There are tours which feature things like how to make a cocktail, food pairings with whisky, how our taste buds work, how to drink whisky and so on, and in the retail area you can design your own unique label to commemorate your visit (genius marketing!).
Note that you currently have to pre-book many of these events and a table at the rooftop restaurant, which once again offers great views of the castle and West End roofscape.
Lastly, don't leave without noticing the best part of the restoration project, Binn's clock on the corner, with it's pipers who come out to a chiming version of "Scotland the Brave" on the quarter hour; now that is how to do kitsch with class!
Markets
If you like food with a bit of a story to it, this is the place. It is open every Saturday morning on top of Castle Terrace car park. Most stallholders are farmers and have a passion for what they are selling. Whilst the wild boar burgers are yummy, my top recommendation is the Arbroath Smokies when they are in town, a sublime smoked herring, much more meaty than a kipper - you will know by the smell, they are smoked on site.
88 recommandé par les habitants
Edinburgh Farmers' Market
Castle TerraceIf you like food with a bit of a story to it, this is the place. It is open every Saturday morning on top of Castle Terrace car park. Most stallholders are farmers and have a passion for what they are selling. Whilst the wild boar burgers are yummy, my top recommendation is the Arbroath Smokies when they are in town, a sublime smoked herring, much more meaty than a kipper - you will know by the smell, they are smoked on site.
If Castle Terrace market was not enough on Saturday, then on Sunday morning you could try the Stockbridge version on Saunders Street and Kerr Street. It combines nicely with a saunter down the Water of Leith (see Dean Village walk).
325 recommandé par les habitants
Stockbridge Market
Saunders StreetIf Castle Terrace market was not enough on Saturday, then on Sunday morning you could try the Stockbridge version on Saunders Street and Kerr Street. It combines nicely with a saunter down the Water of Leith (see Dean Village walk).
Pubs
Edinburgh has all manner of pubs and for foreigners who do not know this British institution it is well worth sampling a variety of them while here. I have placed The West Room first because it is local, easily over-looked, small, quiet (usually) and different - more of a designer bar. It doesn't get busy and therefore closes early, but if you want to chat without shouting this might be the place. And don't be afraid to ask the barman to turn down the music if not
37 recommandé par les habitants
WestRoom
3 Melville PlEdinburgh has all manner of pubs and for foreigners who do not know this British institution it is well worth sampling a variety of them while here. I have placed The West Room first because it is local, easily over-looked, small, quiet (usually) and different - more of a designer bar. It doesn't get busy and therefore closes early, but if you want to chat without shouting this might be the place. And don't be afraid to ask the barman to turn down the music if not
In my view this is the closest decent bar to the Mews Stables. It sits opposite Teuchters (very busy on rugby weekends) and next door to The Green Room Wine Bar (which nevertheless still sells a few beers) so if you get this far you can take your pick of which one has the best vibe at the time, knowing it's only a short stagger home.
40 recommandé par les habitants
The Voyage Of Buck
29-31 William StIn my view this is the closest decent bar to the Mews Stables. It sits opposite Teuchters (very busy on rugby weekends) and next door to The Green Room Wine Bar (which nevertheless still sells a few beers) so if you get this far you can take your pick of which one has the best vibe at the time, knowing it's only a short stagger home.
This bar is probably the nearest "hip" place that stays open after most local pubs shut, without being aimed directly at the nightclub crowd. It is good for a late drink on the way home, but also at lunchtime and early morning as it is formed from a roofed-over courtyard and has an inside/outside feel. In summer the "sitooterie" is one of the few places locally where one can enjoy a drink in the sun.
64 recommandé par les habitants
Indigo Yard
7 Charlotte LnThis bar is probably the nearest "hip" place that stays open after most local pubs shut, without being aimed directly at the nightclub crowd. It is good for a late drink on the way home, but also at lunchtime and early morning as it is formed from a roofed-over courtyard and has an inside/outside feel. In summer the "sitooterie" is one of the few places locally where one can enjoy a drink in the sun.
Kay's Bar on Jamaica Street in the New Town is one of three original, tiny, traditional bars I can recommend as something different from the chains that re-style themselves every few years. It used to be the haunt of lawyers; it is one simple room and has a cosy fire at one end offset by a draughty door at the other.
The Oxford Bar on Young Street has a handful of faithful regulars propping up the bar, most noteably the writer Iain Rankin occasionally drinks along with others “in the know” and it certainly does not try to appeal to tourists, but don't be put off going in. There is nothing so fancy as padded seating, but the beer is good and if you are lucky the landlady might even smile. It is a reminder of when a public house literally was someone's house - the rooms here are smaller than most people's living room.
Whighams Wine Cellars in Hope Street dating from 1760 is the closest of the three to the Mews Stables. Unfortunately it has been extended and revamped but if you stay near the entrance and try to imagine it when there was just the under-pavement cellars for seating you have a good idea of the original.
56 recommandé par les habitants
Kay’s Bar
39 Jamaica StKay's Bar on Jamaica Street in the New Town is one of three original, tiny, traditional bars I can recommend as something different from the chains that re-style themselves every few years. It used to be the haunt of lawyers; it is one simple room and has a cosy fire at one end offset by a draughty door at the other.
The Oxford Bar on Young Street has a handful of faithful regulars propping up the bar, most noteably the writer Iain Rankin occasionally drinks along with others “in the know” and it certainly does not try to appeal to tourists, but don't be put off going in. There is nothing so fancy as padded seating, but the beer is good and if you are lucky the landlady might even smile. It is a reminder of when a public house literally was someone's house - the rooms here are smaller than most people's living room.
Whighams Wine Cellars in Hope Street dating from 1760 is the closest of the three to the Mews Stables. Unfortunately it has been extended and revamped but if you stay near the entrance and try to imagine it when there was just the under-pavement cellars for seating you have a good idea of the original.
If there was only one bar I could take a visitor to in Edinburgh this would be it. The Cafe Royal has it all; over the top Victoriana, an island bar, leather upholstered snugs and an oyster bar restaurant upstairs.
If this place is your cup-of-tea (so to speak) you might also like Bennets Bar next to the Kings Theate in Leven Street or The Kenilworth in Rose Street.
125 recommandé par les habitants
Cafe Royal
19 W Register StIf there was only one bar I could take a visitor to in Edinburgh this would be it. The Cafe Royal has it all; over the top Victoriana, an island bar, leather upholstered snugs and an oyster bar restaurant upstairs.
If this place is your cup-of-tea (so to speak) you might also like Bennets Bar next to the Kings Theate in Leven Street or The Kenilworth in Rose Street.
Shopping
This is the nearest small supermarket to The Mews Stables and is open for most of the basics from 7am until 11pm. It's a safe walk at any time of the day or night, up William Street (described in Local Walks) then right into Stafford Street and left again on Shandwick Place (with trams). Sainsbury's is 100m on the left.
194 recommandé par les habitants
Sainsbury's Local
32-36 Shandwick PlThis is the nearest small supermarket to The Mews Stables and is open for most of the basics from 7am until 11pm. It's a safe walk at any time of the day or night, up William Street (described in Local Walks) then right into Stafford Street and left again on Shandwick Place (with trams). Sainsbury's is 100m on the left.
Soderberg make excellent Swedish-style breads covered in seeds and grains. They have many shops and cafes around Edinburgh but this tiny one is the closet to The Mews Stables.
81 recommandé par les habitants
Söderberg Bakery Shop
45 Broughton StSoderberg make excellent Swedish-style breads covered in seeds and grains. They have many shops and cafes around Edinburgh but this tiny one is the closet to The Mews Stables.
I.J.Mellis have wonderful unheard-of cheeses from all over Scotland, definitely worth indulging in whilst you are here or to take away as a gift. Like Soderberg they have branches all over the city. This one ties in nicely with a walk down the Dean path, but the one on Victoria Street is worth a visit if walking around the Old Town.
56 recommandé par les habitants
IJ Mellis Cheesemongers
6 Bakers PlaceI.J.Mellis have wonderful unheard-of cheeses from all over Scotland, definitely worth indulging in whilst you are here or to take away as a gift. Like Soderberg they have branches all over the city. This one ties in nicely with a walk down the Dean path, but the one on Victoria Street is worth a visit if walking around the Old Town.
There are many specialist whisky shops in Edinburgh, but this is the longest-established as far as I know. Ordinary supermarkets in Scotland probably have more choice of single malts than you are used to at home, so it isn't necessary to go to a specialist shop. However, many distillers now offer specially aged casks, with oak or different barrel characteristics and it can be a bit of a mine-field choosing something good if there isn't a tasting on offer. They aren't necessarily better. Nor is it important to spend a lot. A good single malt can be had for £40, or at a push £50 tops but don't be talked into spending more.
28 recommandé par les habitants
Royal Mile Whiskies
379 High StThere are many specialist whisky shops in Edinburgh, but this is the longest-established as far as I know. Ordinary supermarkets in Scotland probably have more choice of single malts than you are used to at home, so it isn't necessary to go to a specialist shop. However, many distillers now offer specially aged casks, with oak or different barrel characteristics and it can be a bit of a mine-field choosing something good if there isn't a tasting on offer. They aren't necessarily better. Nor is it important to spend a lot. A good single malt can be had for £40, or at a push £50 tops but don't be talked into spending more.
Although Paper Tiger is primarily a greetings card shop it does sell a good array of Scottish-themed gifts, books and confectionery which would make perfect souvenir gifts for people that are difficult to buy for. Downstairs there is a range of unusual childrens toys and books. Their greetings cards are generally good too.
Paper Tiger is on Stafford Street, which crosses William Street, so you are likely to pass close by it every day.
12 recommandé par les habitants
Paper Tiger
6a Stafford StAlthough Paper Tiger is primarily a greetings card shop it does sell a good array of Scottish-themed gifts, books and confectionery which would make perfect souvenir gifts for people that are difficult to buy for. Downstairs there is a range of unusual childrens toys and books. Their greetings cards are generally good too.
Paper Tiger is on Stafford Street, which crosses William Street, so you are likely to pass close by it every day.
Food scene
The best quality restaurants in Edinburgh are all chef-owned, like this establishment. It has a relaxed dining style with superb food for the price, not quite the art-on-a-plate of the city's Michelin starred eateries, but still a level above the norm for that special occasion. It's a do-able 30 minute walk from The Mews Stables and if you don't want to go down the Dean path at night (perfectly safe, but dark) take the 'high' route via Randolph Crescent, Great Stuart Street, Ainslie Place, Moray Place, Doune Terrace and Gloucester Street (that sounds complex but it's a single continuous pavement (U.S. sidewalk) that makes sense on the map). Bon appetit!
150 recommandé par les habitants
The Stockbridge Tap
2-6 Raeburn PlThe best quality restaurants in Edinburgh are all chef-owned, like this establishment. It has a relaxed dining style with superb food for the price, not quite the art-on-a-plate of the city's Michelin starred eateries, but still a level above the norm for that special occasion. It's a do-able 30 minute walk from The Mews Stables and if you don't want to go down the Dean path at night (perfectly safe, but dark) take the 'high' route via Randolph Crescent, Great Stuart Street, Ainslie Place, Moray Place, Doune Terrace and Gloucester Street (that sounds complex but it's a single continuous pavement (U.S. sidewalk) that makes sense on the map). Bon appetit!
This is one of the best Japanese restaurants in Edinburgh and it is just across the street. The ambience is a bit 'school dining hall' but the food is superb. Unlicenced so bring your own bottle or two and pay corkage. And in authentic Japanese style it is cash only, so visit an A.T.M. first, if you can remember what cash is!
23 recommandé par les habitants
Chizuru Tei
278 Morrison StThis is one of the best Japanese restaurants in Edinburgh and it is just across the street. The ambience is a bit 'school dining hall' but the food is superb. Unlicenced so bring your own bottle or two and pay corkage. And in authentic Japanese style it is cash only, so visit an A.T.M. first, if you can remember what cash is!
Even closer than the Chizuri Tei is The Khukuri, regularly voted one of the best South Asian restaurants in Scotland and less than 100m as the crow flies from The Mews Stables.
Justin Trudeau (a Canadian premier) dined here during C.o.P.26, which may encourage you or put you off visiting. But regardless of that, the Nepalese cuisine is different and highly recommended.
6 recommandé par les habitants
The Khukuri
8 W Maitland StEven closer than the Chizuri Tei is The Khukuri, regularly voted one of the best South Asian restaurants in Scotland and less than 100m as the crow flies from The Mews Stables.
Justin Trudeau (a Canadian premier) dined here during C.o.P.26, which may encourage you or put you off visiting. But regardless of that, the Nepalese cuisine is different and highly recommended.
Another chef-owned local restaurant with a high reputation, La Bruschetta is opposite Haymarket Station on Clifton Terrace. It is tiny, so booking ahead is essential and do consider this before you arrive in Edinburgh to stay. The theme is Italian with a focus on fish and sea food.
10 recommandé par les habitants
La Bruschetta
13 Clifton TerraceAnother chef-owned local restaurant with a high reputation, La Bruschetta is opposite Haymarket Station on Clifton Terrace. It is tiny, so booking ahead is essential and do consider this before you arrive in Edinburgh to stay. The theme is Italian with a focus on fish and sea food.
On Alva Street, a continuation of William Street in the West End, Forage and Chatter specialises in what it says, forage, so expect wild herbs and weeds amongst the ingredients differentiating this restaurant from the crowd. The food is casually presented but exquisite in flavour; probably my favourite locally.
36 recommandé par les habitants
Forage & Chatter
1A Alva StOn Alva Street, a continuation of William Street in the West End, Forage and Chatter specialises in what it says, forage, so expect wild herbs and weeds amongst the ingredients differentiating this restaurant from the crowd. The food is casually presented but exquisite in flavour; probably my favourite locally.